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The beautiful coastal location of the Church of the Archangel

Whilst dining at Vedat’in Yeri in Trilye, the local experts became interested in my Byzantine church quest. They were unimpressed with my idea of finding the remains of monasteries out of town. Instead, they suggested that I drive to the nearby village of Kumyaka and ask for Ramiz.

Ramiz Bey holds the key to the amazing Baş Melekler Kilisesi, the Byzantine Church of the Archangels. There is a lack of definitive information about Siği. This article suggests that the church was built by the emperor Constantine VII Porphyrogenitus in 789. Constantine VII did not rule until the 10^th century so this presumably refers to Constantine VI. The article also makes the frankly astonishing claim that the Baş Melekler Kilisesi is the world’s third oldest church.

The church from the east

Looking into the narthex to the Archangel frescoes

It is a magnificent place. This source suggests that it was renovated by the last Byzantine Emperor (Constantine XI Palaiologos) in 1448, an unlikely scenario as the Trilye region was firmly in Ottoman hands after 1323. The renovations are in the style of the 12^th or 13^th centuries and the frescoes probably date from this period. The smaller dome once surmounted a narthex, but the two domed chambers now give the effect of a single nave. The parecclesion is ruined and vaults beneath the main church are in poor condition.

View into the nave from the west

Looking from the narthex into the nave

The frescoes are amazing. The church was renovated by the energetic Greek population and what we see now must be largely from the 19^th century (particularly the uncompromising blue of the narthex) but the conventions of 13^th century orthodox wall art seem to have been followed. This congregation’s use and care of the church ended with the population exchange of 1923. The church fell into ruin. In the early 2000s, it was bought by Mete Yalçın, an eminent Istanbul civil engineer with plans for its development. Inevitably, regulations governing the preservation of monuments thwarted these plans so Mete Bey put the church up for sale in 2011.

The intact dome of the nave

There must have been mosaics here in the 14th century

The people of the village put in a bid with the idea of converting the church into a cultural centre, as was done with the Agios Vasileos church in Trilye. However, their offer fell short of the asking price. In 2012, The Orthodox Patriarchate bought the church. They strengthened the wall around it to prevent unauthorised entry but provided the key for Ramiz Bey, the muhtar, to allow visitors to see this Byzantine provincial gem. The twentieth century was not kind to the church or its frescoes. It remains to be seen what the Patriarchate does with its new purchase.

Wall of narthex with Archangel frescoes

One of the Archangels

If you visit, Falez Café is right on the harbourside and does a very good breakfast, despite the staff’s apparent surprise when you turn up and ask for it.

Column arrangement in the narthex

In August 2016, there was evidence of conservation work in progress. The smaller dome over the narthex was covered in plastic, the archangel frescoes were protected with panelling and there had been some excavation in the altar area. It will be a long time before the church is ready for use but it’s nice to see some positive efforts on behalf of this amazing building.

Western end of the church in August 2016

Covered archangel frescoes

Detail of altar

Mango, C and Ihor Ševčenko (1973) Some Churches and Monasteries on the Southern Shore of the Sea of Marmara Dumbarton Oaks Papers Vol. 27 (1973), pp. 235-277 Available online at: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1291343 Accessed 29th Aug 2016

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